Test: the Saint sense, a French brand of shirts custom-made, bought by the same group as the site of e-commerce Menlook. This name may sound familiar: Saint sense had already been the subject of a previous test. Don’t worry, we won’t make you a repeat, but introduce more thoroughly the brand, its expertise, the quality of fabrics and clothing to recognize a quality shirt. As production was repatriated in France, without significant increase on prices.
The shirt that makes sense
Since 2005, St. sense makes made-to-measure shirt on the internet.
Year after year, they improved to offer a high range of good quality shirt.
I know that many of you are afraid to take the plunge. Either because you feel a little lost in the choice of fabrics, collar, cuffs and more when it comes to take its measures. In short, it can quickly become annoying and discouraging.
What’s the point then?
Well, it’s pretty simple, have a shirt well architectured, that has a beautiful fall. Yes we talk mainly about fell for costumes, but do not neglect the fallen of the shirt. The interest is double when you have a morphology that is not standardized profiles of ready-to-wear: like the brawny rugby player (which has the impression of being sponsored by Eden Park).
Facilitate to the maximum the remote control
Saint sense tries to answer this degree of ambient uncertainty that makes you do not dare to take the plunge. If you are not satisfied with your measurements (or you’re a bit wrong when taking measures), St sense offers free to readjust it for paying postage.
And Saint sense will soon offer a new product: make your vintage shirt personalized from your check shirt (launching within 3 months). Avoids any grubbing-up of unwanted hair, tall and so on, who do we get discouraged. To do this, you just have to send them your favorite shirt and they take care of everything. You can even tell them to remove a few centimeters in some areas of the shirt. I think it’s clearly the best way to proceed in terms of making measurement and precision of the cut.
Of course, you have in advance customization of your future shirt to choose items:
- The fabrics and motifs: a wide choice of about 290 different references
- The collar: a range of twenty different collars
- Wrists: 1 button, 2 buttons, French cuffs
- And even the ability to embroider your initials and/or choose a lining inside collar and cuffs (but watch out for the taste fault: we can very quickly get out of hand, especially with liberty fabrics)
Saint Sense (The Return)
You’ll understand the customization is pretty rich. But be careful: too much customization kills customization. Because you can quickly fall into the too much or bad taste. Never forget that a shirt in the first place is a garment that is synonymous of elegance. You just to let yourself be guided and you will receive your shirt in 2 weeks. Holy meaning is by (you can test on the site of Saint-Sens).
Saint sense: it’s the good stuff?
The Holy sense shirts are 100% cotton, on this price range is the base. There are two types of cotton:
Sea Island cotton has the longest cotton fiber in the world (up to 52 mm), it has a touch silky and is extremely thin. This unique cotton is harvested by hand and then treated with extreme care. It is only today ‘ more than 5% of the world production.
Egyptian cotton is known for making very silky, refined and resistant fabrics. The term “Egyptian cotton” refers both to a particular species of cotton of Egyptian origin and mode of agriculture that preserves the quality of the cotton fiber. Egyptian cotton is not necessarily produced in Egypt but it must be grown in a particular environment: in areas with hot days and cool nights. It is also distinguished by the length of its fibers and represents only 1% of world production.
Beyond their rarity, these types of cotton are guarantees of quality as their main feature is that the cotton fiber is long. And more fibers are long, they are fine and the resulting wire (and therefore the fabric) aura of good features against abrasion, to twist, washing. This will allow the fabric of the shirt to better aging and last in time.
Italian Saint sense providers use cotton harvested in Egypt for “Elite” and “Luxury” of Saint sense lines (at prices of shirts of 139, 169 and 229 euros). The fabric comes from big houses such as Albini and Thomas Mason. Why? Thomas Mason for example performs several washes during the stages of production, which drastically reduces the wash and the narrowing of the future shirt. Let me tell you that you won’t find Egyptian cotton at entry level.And even less of Sea Island cotton which is still very expensive (Besides, Saint sense does not offer in its collection).
The different tissues / weaves for a shirt
Poplin is the result of a weaving of a chain wire thinner than the weft wire. The fabric is silky and generally used for dress shirts. Saint sense use mostly fabrics (be they United or patterned) from this technique.
The oxford is a weaving technique which uses a coloured weft wire and a white wire string, which gives this effect of small motifs. It is slightly thicker than the Poplin and has the characteristic to be a soft and resistant fabric. You will find this type of fabric on more casual shirts and the U.S. passes (col with the tips of the neck are boutonnables).
The wire to wire is a weaving alternating 2 colors of wires. This gives a mini grid. We find this technique of weaving on United shirts, giving them a more modern style.
The twill has a structure (or armor) special diagonally, like John. You never noticed that your jeans are easier ironing? And it is partly thanks to this weaving. It is also a soft and silky fabric.
The chevron is a weaving quite close to the twill, recognizable by its diagonal weaving. It is also flexible and very silky. This kind of weaving is ideal to give depth to the color of the shirt.
The joint is a weaving combining the technique of the twill and Poplin, oxford and the honeycomb (little used in shirt, but it exists), etc…
Although Saint sense uses mainly Poplin, you can direct your choice on these other types of weaves. Note that most weaving is regular, more tissue is qualitative. The length of the cotton fibers affects the regularity of a fabric where the importance of select quality as cotton can do St. sense. On the other hand, as for the mesh, the softness of the fabric means absolutely nothing about its quality.
The criteria of quality of a fabric
A high-quality shirt is a devious double son fabric. To distinguish it from the simple retro, you’ll find that the fabric of the shirt will be silkier and more pleasant to the touch.
So you can also keep your shirt longer: 2-wire worth more than 1. Let’s be honest, do not expect to see a devious double thread in Saint sense entry-level at 59 euros or another brand (such as Zara for example even if the price/quality ratio is correct): there are unavoidable costs, and offer this type of wire is one.
The titration also affects the quality. The titration is the unit of measurement to determine the fineness of a thread. For short fibres such as cotton, the unit used is the English number.Actually the number is high, the wire is thin and tight. Between 80 and 90, we can estimate that the fabric is quality and between 160 and 200, the fabric is very very good. Attention in this case, the price of the shirt is likely to soar!
Even if the fabric can be quality, some details may be overlooked for various reasons, often for the sake of profitability of the brand. On the range top shirts, have a requirement and focus on the details that are indicative of a true quality shirt. In other words, check if the shirt is worth its price!
The collar of the shirt
The collar is typically the detail that should not be overlooked. On a high range to the dressed style shirt, require the neck to be rigid and there are whales (removable or not) so that the tips of the col ducktail not. No compromise on that, okay?
What is a quality collar? A collar mounted with a 100% cotton fabric. The fabric is a triple thickness as its name suggests. In practice, we have the underside of the neck, top, and the fabric (tissue thercollant which comes to stick between the two under the action of heat). A quality fabric to be woven. And when she is asked should not see “bubbles” on the neck, even after washing (even if it ends at a time by appear).
Note, that there are no glued triplures but they are much more difficult to maintain and require a special technique of ironing. As a result, they are much less used today even if they are of a higher quality.
It’s a little technical you might say but the fact that the first 2 layers of fabrics are woven between them, will have a real impact on the quality of cervical. If the fabric is quality, your cervix will be smooth and will have no small bubbles on the surface of the cervix (both the place inside out). And it’s often on the reverse we see this type of fault appear (always return a pass now).
In addition, a quality collar will age better in time, after a few washes on the shirts of average quality or frankly cheap, defects (bubbles and the warped effect) will multiply after a few washes. On this kind of pass, the fabric is not woven and therefore the use of the glued fabric is more widespread. And glue do not like the heat (of washing, for example).
They have the closest possible regular and. The number of stitches per cm must be the most possible student (5 or 6 points per cm, it starts to be good). It does not always pay attention to this detail but compare a low or medium quality shirt and a high range shirts, you will see the difference. And that goes also for the buttonholes.
The finesse of a shirt Assembly attests to its strength. When you wear a shirt, like any other clothing, mechanical constraints are created and these focus particularly at the joints between different parts of the fabric. Hence the importance of a quality Assembly (regular and tight points) between different parts of a shirt (front, back, shoulders, arms, neck and wrists).
The test of the shirt
Now to the test of the shirt. The site gives you enough practical guidance if you choose to take your measurements from one of your shirts.
My shirt is equivalent to the mid range at Saint sense. She is pretty well pricee, 79 euros for the choice of fabric + 2 paid options (buttons thick nacre: 7.90 euros + neck and wrists white: 19.80 euros). What gives a shirt about 105 euros.
Let’s start with the less good. I find that the shirt is a great hair to the shoulders and could better time at the level of the back. Still I took measurements from a shirt that’s good, in short an architectured shirt that fits me well. I think my disappointment comes shirt St sense has a cup a more traditional, at halfway between the straight and the slim cut.
Although Saint sense can rectify this kind of small adjustment, I recommend to take your measurements on shirts of the same kind than what you order.
I also find that the armhole could be a little more fitted. Of course, I don’t have big arms but she would deserve a more fit, particularly to refine the silhouette.
For the rest, nothing to report, the neck is perfectly adjusted, the length of the sleeves is good and the armhole is well mounted. Neither too high nor too low compared to the armpits to ensure comfort in the movements
I chose a shirt in clear blue poplin with wrists and the white collar (narrow neck in passing). I had a very good impression. Poplin is soft and silky, you immediately see the benefit of weaving in double twined. It’s a really nice to wear shirt. It turned out to be a quality fabric that takes good light. As I said previously in the article, St. sense uses beautiful cloths.
Side finishes, I find them very correct. The points are well regular on all parts of the shirt (7 points per cm). I also find that the sleeves, neck and wrists are well mounted. In fact, the fabric of the collar and cuffs are also well executed.
As you can see, I chose an American throat which is also very clean. And the buttons are Pearl of good quality. For the record, Benoit who had already tested a Holy meaning shirtspontaneously said that they had improved the quality of the buttonhole. So a very good point!
A beautiful buttonhole! You can observe the regularity of the fabric to the passage
Of beautiful Pearl buttons sewn on feet very well done
(and not even the fabric).
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